Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrire Chez Edouard Blanc 2023

Lamy makes two white cuves from this beautiful southeast-facing plot, which sits behind the village cemetery. There are two distinct plots of Chardonnay both planted on the steeper, rockier soils (some Pinot is also planted on the clay-rich soils). At the top of the vineyard is the legendaryHaute Densitparcel (Lamys first HD site, planted at a staggering 30,000 vines per hectaresee more below). The vines that produce this wine were planted between 1985 and 2001, at a density of 14,000 vines per hectare. The soils are powerful white marl (chalky clay), and the wine that results is always deep and structured with texture and remarkable extract. The 2023 has the depth, layers and power of a Grand Cru. It is a fabulous-value wine in the context of Burgundy prices today. Its generous and layered, then, boom: the rocky, minerality kick in, leaving the palate vibrating with saline, powdery energy. The score below completely under values the quality here.