2023 Laura Aschero Pigato, Riviera Ligure di Ponente, Liguria, Italy

ABOUT THE WINE

Wine professionals love to argue about Pigato, the very intriguing white grape indigenous to Liguria. Pigato is Vermentino many argue. But ask any farmer working the steep, rocky slopes that loom over the ocean there and theyll tell you theres a big difference between the two. In fact, many growers like the late Laura Aschero believe the two are distinctive enough to bottle both. What we do know for sure is that both grapes relish their proximity to the sea and the best examples of both boast an almost salty quality that, when combined with the grapes delicate floral and herbal notes, can be magical.

The newly-arrived 2021 Pigato is just a beautiful example of Pigato. Here is a wine that tastes like youre sitting on a loggia overlooking the Italian Riviera itself. Its salinity is palpable, as are the wild herbs, bracken and flowers that are so much a part of the flora of this region. The fruit is surprisingly rich for a wine so seemingly lean and there are notes that are almost tropical, with hints of apricots and pineapple to go with its preserved lemon and verbena core. Still, its the wines taut vibrancy and broad mineral-finish that makes this one of the worlds best seafood wines. As you can imagine, oysters, mussels and the like are naturals, as is a whole grilled fish. Stuff the cavity with fresh herbs and its an even better pairing. Rich enough for richer fish like halibut and salmon too. If youve been to Liguria, this will take you right back to those sights and smells. If youve yet to have the pleasure, heres a way to discover this most amazing part of the Italian coast without even having to leave your living room! A definite winner no matter what you choose to complement, this is one of those a-ha Italian whites of which one can never have enough.

ABOUT THE PRODUCER

In the Ligurian Riviera, both vines are planted on slopes where only the most intrepid farmers dare cultivate them- farmers like Marco Rizzo who, following his late mother Lauras footsteps, has spent a generation refining the farming of the vines he found when he moved to his ancestral property. In just a few short decades, his tiny family business (his wife Carla and daughter Bianca are now also involved) has turned into the premier producers of Vermentino and Pigato in Italy, and the Aschero wines are treasured the world-over for their beautiful expressions of their unique terroir.

A small family-run company that produces less than 6,000 cases of fine wine from Liguria annually, including Vermentino, Pigato and Rossese, the estate of Laura Aschero began its winemaking activities as a hobby in 1980, planting vines to the family-owned land that had formerly been used for other types of crops. Laura Aschero started the winery upon the advice of a friend who claimed that she had the perfect land for growing grapes. Since her passing in 2009, her son has continued her successful venture with great passion and dedication. The winery is based in Pontedassio, in the hills above Imperia, and its vines are situated at approximately 150 meters above sea level on year-round sun-kissed hills, enjoying the ideal temperature and terrain for cultivating vines and maturing grapes. The wine cellar, situated in an ancient palace under the Piazza del Paese, has been completely renovated and today has modern and efficient wine-producing facilities.