2016 A. Margaine Special Club Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru, Champagne, France

ABOUT THIS WINE

The vintage Blanc de Blancs (the Spcial Club bottling) from this grower based in the little-known village of Villers-Marmery at the far eastern end of the Montagne de Reims is refined, incisive, and vinous, built on understated lemon fruit, and acquiring tantalizing walnut-butter notes with time.

100% Chardonnay, this 2016 vintage comes from Villers-Marmery 1er Cru Alouettes 45%, Ruelles 40% & Montmedy 15%. Vineyard sites in chalk and clay soils. Margaine uses no malo and elevage is 80% stainless steel with 20% oak barrels. Sur latte for 66 months and disgorgement date is May 2024.

ABOUT THIS PRODUCER

This is a small, family owned estate in the Premier Cru village of Villers-Mamery. This is a unique village; though it is in the Montagne, exposition and very chalky soil make it ideal for growing Chardonnay. Over ninety percent of the village is planted to that variety. Arnaud Margaine, the current proprietor, took over in 1989 and is the fourth generation grower-producer in his family. His daughter, Mathilde has recently come back to the domaine to help with operations. Today, the family farms 6.5 hectares, all in Villers-Marmery. Margaine has been a member of the Spcial Club since 1977and his Club wine is always a Blanc de Blancs from his oldest parcels in the village. The average age of the vines are over 35 years, with Champs dEnfer over 60. Vineyard work here is meticulous, and precludes any herbicides and pesticides with a focus on balance. Cover crops are used extensively and Arnaud has thought aboutcertifying organic, though he has not yet made this decision. Margaine continues to experiment, in- troducing a Solera Cuve last year as well asan excellent Ros de Saigne from a small amount of Pinot Noir co-macerated with- Chardonnay. Vinification is in both barrel and stainless steel, depending on the parceland the wine. A maximum of 20 to 30 percent [of barrel-fermented wine] is a good complement for my blends, says Arnaud. I dont want to go any higher. Arnaud keeps a large proportion of reserve wine, some of which is held in tank, with a percentage held in magnum with a slight mousse a la Bollinger. They are rich in flavor without being heavy, and over the last decade and a half that I have been drinking them I feel that they have progressively gained in finesse and complexity. Capable of an intensely pronounced expression of terroir, Margaines champagnes represent for me the reference point for the village of Villers-Marmery. -Peter Liem,